Direct answer
Demand a named pilling method, cycle count and minimum grade on the fabric approval — not an ‘anti-pill’ claim. Re-check after wash on soft finishes, and lock the grade on the PO before colour MOQ for men’s activewear knits.
| Ask for | Why | Buyer action |
|---|---|---|
| Test method | Martindale / ICI differ | Record method on the PO |
| Cycles | Compares like-for-like | Reject vague ‘passed’ notes |
| Grade | Visible quality bar | Set a minimum before colour |
| After wash | Finish can change | Re-test soft-hand fabrics |
What pilling tells you
Pilling is surface fibre entanglement after abrasion. On training knits it shows first at underarm, side seam and print edges — exactly where athletes notice quality.
How labs report it
Most mills quote a Martindale or ICI pilling grade after a set number of cycles. Higher grade means less visible pills. Ask for method, cycles and grade — not ‘anti-pill’ marketing copy.
Buyer acceptance
Agree a minimum grade on the purchase order for body fabric and, where relevant, for print/transfer zones. Re-test after wash if the finish is soft-hand or brushed.
Commercial tip
A cheaper yarn that pills early costs more in returns than a slightly higher fabric price. Put the grade on the quote sheet next to GSM.
Common mistakes
- Accepting ‘anti-pill’ without a grade
- Testing only unworn fabric before wash
- Ignoring print-edge abrasion
Buyer advice
- Put method + cycles + grade on one approval line
- Compare shortlisted mills under the same method
- Inspect underarm and side seam after wear trials
Buyer FAQ
Questions procurement usually asks next
Is a higher GSM always more pill-resistant?
No. Yarn quality, twist and finish matter more than weight alone.
Do wovens pill like knits?
Different failure modes. Still demand abrasion notes for high-friction zones such as pockets.
When should I reject a fabric?
When the grade misses the PO minimum, or when wear trials show early pills at seams despite a passing lab sheet.
Evaluate styles
From this insight → library products
Open a sample path on a live block — then confirm fabric platform and MOQ on the RFQ.
Downloadable library summary: Lookbook PDF. Legal entity: Guangzhou Elevia Apparel Technology Co., Ltd.